Week 26 – Architectural Darwinism, Modernism, and Celebrating the Third Anniversary of the Rome Sustainable Food Project

In last week’s blog, I discussed Foreman Comon’s attention to detail on the clay roofing tile overhang dimensions at eaves.  Architect Chris Decareau posted an interesting comment that related in part to a perception that contractors who work on restorations (like Comon) show greater attention to detail, and a greater inclination to suggest the “best” way to do something, as compared with contractors who work on new, modern construction.  

Foreman Comon (in blue) and his crew install clay tile roofing atop the cortile of Palazetto Cenci.

My pencil and watercolor drawing of a highly-evolved roof eave detail on a building in the Trastevere section of rome

I’d like to make a related point:  in traditional construction (and restoration thereof), the same or very similar details (such as clay tile overhanging a roof eave edge) are commonly used on many buildings, over long periods of time.   Thus, the same basic detail, in subtle variations, (like the exact dimension of that clay tile overhang)  have been exposed to and tested by the elements for long periods of time.  This “real life testing” enables careful observers like Comon and Vitruvius to observe what has worked well, what hasn’t, and see how the variations that have failed have failed (e.g., as Comon observed with tile overhangs at eaves, too long an overhang leads to the tile breaking when stepped on, whereas too short an overhang leads to rot of the wood framing on the underside of the eave.   Thus, they figure out what variation is best, and use that variation going forward.   I call this process (of trial and error and refinement and evolution of traditional construction details) “architectural Darwinism”.  (Here’s a link to a summary of one of the lectures I’ve given on this process of architectural Darwinism).   

One of the significant challenges in the design and construction of modern, innovative new architecture, and similarly in the preservation of 20th century modernism, is this:   In their quest to constantly innovate in forms and materials, architects such as Wright, Le Corbusier, Gropius, Saarinen, Rudolph, and Moretti  were constantly forced to invent new construction details.  Thus, unlike traditional buildings, these modernist and buildings did  NOT  benefit from this same process of “architectural Darwinism” – instead the modernists had to innovate in their technical detailing without a well-established, collective knowledge of what works well (proves durable) and what doesn’t over time.   In inventing new details, modernist architects often did not get the technical aspects of the detailing exactly right, and consequently, many of the icons of modernism have problems (e.g. deterioration, leakage) resulting from inherent shortcomings or flaws in the original design.  

FL Wright's Zimmerman House (c. 1951)

Sert's Holyoke Center (c. 1965)

Moretti's ex-GIL building (c. 1937)

That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t innovate in design – it just means that when we do so, we need to be much smarter about our design of details, and we need to learn to apply the broad principles and lessons of durable, reliable detailing that we’ve previously learned to designing details for these new conditions and materials.   That isn’t easy – we won’t always get it 100% right the first time.    Consequently, we also need to have up-front discussions with our clients, for whom we will be designing and constructing these buildings, about the inherent risks of innovating.  

Giovanni Bernabei's organic farm (azienda agricola biologica) near Ceprano, Lazio, Italy

Both Italian and American flags flew over the Bernabei farm when we visited.

Three years ago, the American Academy implemented a completely new food program for the meals here, envisioned by the famed Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, along with her chefs Mona Talbott and Chris Boswell.  This sustainable “slow food” program is known as the Rome Sustainable Food Project (RSFP).   They established direct relationships with local organic farmers.  Mona, Chris and the rest of the staff build our menu around whatever fresh, local organic food is available from local organic farmers in that particular season.  All our food is organic, all from Italy, 80% from Lazio (the region of which Rome is a part) and some of our food is even grown in our own gardens here at the Academy.   The program has been a phenomenal success, and has greatly improved daily life here at the Academy, as described in this NY Times article on the Academy’s “food renaissance”.  

Two weeks ago, we marked the actual anniversary of the RSFP by bringing the entire kitchen staff out to the dining room after dinner for a standing ovation, and presenting flowers to Executive Chef Mona Talbott, Sous Chef Chris Boswell, and Cook Domenico Cortese.  

Giovanni tells the American Academy community about his farming techniques.

Yesterday, Sunday, was another special day of celebration of the RSFP, as the kitchen staff, the Fellows, and our families were all invited out to tour the farm of Giovanni Bernabei, near the town of Ceprano (in southern Lazio).  Giovanni is an organic, biodynamic farmer who grows using the traditional methods.  He supplies the Academy with much of our produce, as well as some of our eggs, chicken, and pork.  Giovanni does not irrigate – he captures rainwater in large pit cistern at the top of his field, and uses gravity and hoses to water the crops when they are new.  Once the plants are established, he simply allows the rain to water the plants – he doesn’t supplement with additional watering.    

Giovanni’s fields are not cleared – he grows his produce in among the natural tall grasses on the hillside that help:  

• shade the soil, allowing it to stay moist without artificial watering,
• encourage a diverse ecosystem (e.g., allow the habitat for other insects such as grasshoppers that eat insects that would eat the crops), and  
• prevent erosion

At first glance, the hillside field where he grows his vegetables looks like a wild meadow, not a field full of crops.   Upon closer examination, one sees cabbage, garlic, broccoli, and other familiar vegetables growing among the tall grass.  The chefs tell me they can really taste the difference in the intensity of flavor of his vegetables grown using this traditional method, as compared with even other local organic produce.  

Giovanni speaks, with historian Eileen Ryan (white jacket), interpreting for the non-Italian speakers.

As Giovanni led our tour through the muddy hillside field, he spoke passionately not only about farming, health, nutrition and organic food, but also more broadly and philosophically about the cycles of natural ecosystems and the circle of life.   Giovanni is so admired and respected here at the American Academy that his picture hangs in the Academy’s kitchen.   

The first of many courses.

Giovanni and his wife Assunta very generously and graciously hosted all of us (about 25 people) for a feast they prepared from the bounty of their farm – the vegetables, pastas, sausages, pork roast, pork ribs, breads, and even the wine were all made by them.   

A phenomenal dinner in Ceprano given by Giovanni and Assunta Bernabei for the American Academy.

It was an absolutely phenomenal meal – first and foremost in quality, but also in quantity.    The courses just kept appearing, one after another, and many of us had to loosen our belts a notch for the sleepy train ride home.   I had gotten to know Assunta in previous months from buying vegetables from her at an organic farmer’s market held two Sundays each month in Rome’s Centro, on Via Giulia.   It’s a wonderful feeling not only to get to know and feel connected to the land where my food is grown, but also to know and feel connected to the people who grow it.  

Assunta and Giovanni with my daughter.

Chatting with Giancarlo, the son of Assunta and Giovanni, over dinner.

Giovanni in the field where he grows much of the American Academy's produce.